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Sanma Autumn fish

In Japan, there is a phrase called Shokuyoku no Aki, which translates to the "Autumn of Appetite." Once the exhausting, humid summer ends and a cool breeze begins to blow, our natural appetites finally return. There is a profound sense of happiness in eating seasonal foods as the seasons change.

On the shelves of our local supermarkets, vibrant summer vegetables are slowly disappearing, replaced by autumn harvests like chestnuts, sweet potatoes, and mushrooms. When I walk through the aisles with my three-year-old son, Yui, he often begs for sweet potatoes because he loves them so much. Even in these small, everyday moments, I can feel the turning of the seasons.

For expats and foreign residents living in Japan, there is one thing I highly recommend trying this season: Sanma (Pacific saury).

True to the kanji characters used to write its name, it is a sword-like fish caught in the autumn. Its sleek, silver body looks just like a beautiful blade drawn freshly from the autumn sea. During this time of year, as you walk through the streets, the rich, smoky aroma of grilling Sanma often drifts from neighborhood kitchens.

The traditional Japanese way to enjoy it is to simply salt and grill it until it is perfectly browned, serving it whole with a side of grated daikon radish. The slight bitterness of the fish is perfectly complemented by the refreshing tartness of citrus and the sharp bite of the radish. It is a complex, slightly mature flavor that truly represents a Japanese autumn.

If you are spending the autumn in Japan, I hope you look past the standard sushi or wagyu and try a simple plate of grilled Sanma. It may not be a flashy dish, but this single plate perfectly captures the fleetingly beautiful sense of the seasons unique to Japan.